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By Keith Archibald Forbes (see About Us) exclusively for Bermuda Online
To refer to this web file, please use "bermuda-online.org/seesmith.htm" as your Subject.
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Smith's Parish's crest, from that of Sir Thomas Smith
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The Bermuda Government appoints a Parish Council for each Parish. The chairperson or members of each will give further information about the crest to students and others, including meaning of the motto. |
Smith's Parish, one of the nine counties or Parishes of Bermuda of about equal size, is on Main Island. It has sea frontage on the South and North shores and southern side of the inland lake of Harrington Sound. It is named after one of Bermuda's Elizabethan patrons,
Sir Thomas Smith or Smythe (1588-1624) was an English aristocrat with humble beginnings who raised himself by his integrity to great responsibilities and riches. He was knighted by King James and became the first Governor of the famous East India Company and first Governor of the Somers Isles Company - Bermuda - an office he held at the time of his death in 1625. Because he supported British efforts to discover a Northwest Passage to the Orient, his name was given by explorer William Baffin to Smith's Sound on the Canadian coast of British Columbia. The Bermuda Historical Society has two prints of him, in one frame, the top one showing his upper torso and the lower the same but with a hat on, in ruffled collar and a legend reading "Thomas Smith Equitis Aurati etc. Vera Effigies Praeclariss Viri Dom." He was Chief organizer and 1st Governor of the East India Company, First Treasurer of the Virginia Company 1607-1619, Governor of the Somers Island Company 1615-1621 and again 1623-1624 until his death. Great merchant, capitalist, exponent of exploration, the friend of R. Huckluyt. He was the solid man of business under whom London merchants invested 80,000 pounds in Virginia and 60,000 pounds in Bermuda and held on when hopes of profit were small.
Sir Thomas Smith was a special British Ambassador to Russia. He was buried in 1624 at Ashford in Kent. Much of his vast fortune was devoted to the endowment of charities. He was one of the illustrious band of gentlemen "Adventurers" who invested in the Bermuda Company to colonize the Bermuda islands from 1615 onwards. He was the largest shareholder in the original Smith's Tribe, later Smith's Parish. However, because he never visited his Bermuda domain, early settlers called referred to the Tribe as Harris's Bay. (Harris Bay today is one of the residential sections of this attractive central Parish for sightseeing purposes. In addition to Smith's Parish, Smith's Island (61 acres, in St. George's Harbour in Bermuda) is also named after him, as are several places in Virginia and Smith's Sound in latitude 75 North to the West of Greenland.
Smith's Island in St. George's Parish was Bermuda's first settlement. It was here that Carter, Chard and Waters, reputedly the three Kings of Bermuda from 1610 to 1612, settled when they were the first accidental permanent colonists in Bermuda. They built cabins of palmetto, planted beans, water melons, tobacco, maize, fished of the coast, hunted wild hogs, salted bacon and fish they caught and even made a fresh water catch. When the Plough arrived from England on July 11, 1612 with the first party of planned colonists, it went first to St. David's to discharge them then went two days later to an anchorage on the south shore of Smith's Island. Carter, Chard and Waters showed Governor Richard Moore the varieties of garden produce they had grown. Moore was delighted because the Somers Isles Company in London had supplied him with 81 varieties of seed to try in Bermuda. Many of the first European crops Virginia and later American colonies saw were planted on Smith's Island. The first planned settlers made rock ovens for their food from the local limestone until they moved to St. George's Island and Town of St. George in the summer and autumn of 1612.
Given that Smith was the first Governor of the East India Company, it is an interesting footnote that East India Company tea was sent to the bottom of Boston Harbor in Massachusetts in December 1773 just before the American Revolution. The Tea Act legislated in London earlier in 1773 allowed the East India Company, trading from London, to sell more East India tea at a cheaper price, in America and world wide, via British merchant ships belonging to the East India Company. When the American Revolution started, British tea was a forbidden import in all American ports. Those interested in tea will appreciate the distinctive "original tea" packaging of tea from the East India Company today.
Bus routesA cove on the east side of Sue Wood Bay (in Devonshire). One of the several local place names referring to members of the Williams family, a line of Bermudian seafarers.
East of Flatt's Village and Palmetto Bay, it is now merely an ornate iron tower and old bridge curiosity attached to an old boathouse on the shore of Harrington Sound. Once the property south of it on the other side of Harrington Sound Road and part of it was a mansion, connected to the tower by a pedestrian bridge. The boathouse was accessed via the Manor House bridge. The property, bridge and boathouse were built in the 1920s by an American millionaire, Charles Ledyard Blair and his first wife who was related to the Bermudian Butterfield family. Blair was from New Jersey (Blairstown) and imported non-Bermudian architecture. Later, it became the upmarket Deepdene Manor Hotel, which operated until the 1970s but is no longer around. Now it is part of an upmarket real estate condominium development for residents only - not for visitors unless they are able to rent privately for a short period from any individual owners who might be interested. The original manor house still stands as part of the condominium development but has seen many other condominium units added to it. The original developer was Bermudian the late L. P. Gutteridge, a very well known and much-liked realtor, businessman and politician. Some of his grandchildren still live in Bermuda. The aptly-named road Manor House Drive leads up to it. Manor House is still a corporate entity. For further information on Deepdene, possibly prior to its conversion to a condominium development and certainly afterwards, phone Gutteridge-Hart Property Management and Rentals, Suite 186, 48 Par-la-Ville Road, Hamilton HM 11, Bermuda. Phone or fax (441) 232-2437 or e-mail gh@northrock.bm.
It produced eerie sounds that were considered by superstitious people to be the moans of the Devil. Fishermen built walls around it to ward off the Devil and kept their catch fresh in its cool waters. Passers-by, curious about what lay behind the walls surrounding the cave, became its first visitors in the early 1830s. It is Bermuda's oldest tourist attraction.
Now its residents include fish, a 6 foot long Moray eel by the name of Henry, plus two large green turtles called Romeo and Lady Hook. Enjoy "fishing" for the turtles and reef fish via a harmless hook with no bait. The entry fee is US or Bermuda $10.00 per person, free for children under 12, $5 for children 12 to 18 and with US$50 annual membership. Special features are its (limited supply of) imported from El Salvador marble turtles in various sizes and prices, with marble feet and a marble tail, in five pieces that can be glued together or bound together in another way, found nowhere else in Bermuda. They are gorgeous!
 Harrington Hundreds Grocery
& Liquor Store is on the South Road, near the eastern entrance to
Spittal Pond. A small full-service store, it has perhaps the best choice of health foods in Bermuda.
Opposite Collector's Hill, the A-1, part of the MarketPlace, also with full service and liquor. Both are on bus route 1, not as frequent on a weekend as on a weekday. Both are open every day (call to check times) including Sunday (from 1 pm to 5 pm). Both sell liquor, but not on Sunday. |
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But budget in advance for Bermuda prices. They stun many visitors. Bermuda grocery shopping is hugely expensive, especially compared to the USA. What a couple can buy in the USA to last them for a week will be less expensive than buying food in Bermuda for merely two days.
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Also named for Lucy Harrington,
the Smith's Parish part of
the sound begins at Flatts Village. The sound is an inland lake, mostly in Smith's Parish
and Hamilton Parish, only slightly in St. George's Parish. Overlook it and its islands
after climbing Harrington Sound Road.
See pretty private residences and estate roads until Harrington Hundreds Road meets Knapton Hill Road. From there, see the South Shore coast below. Its only entrance of the Sound to the sea is under Flatts Bridge, via Flatts Inlet. It is gorgeous for fishing, swimming, sunfish sailing, kayaking and viewing. There are lots of bays, caves, cliffs and coves, but not many beaches. |
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The Sound marks the lowest point on the Bermuda sea platform. It is
quite deep, about 23 meters (about 70 feet) at its deepest point (off Devil's Hole).
Its geological formation is not yet fully explained. However, it is not the crater of an extinct volcano. The islands in the parish include Turtle Island. Some are inhabited year round. |
Photographs by author Keith A. Forbes
Going east, travel along the southern and southeastern extremities, with marvelous views all the way of this outstanding body of water and its islands. The stretch between Palmetto Bay and Devil's Hole is particularly pleasant. At Devil's Hole, stay left (unless you want to divert to the right to get to Devil's Hole Hill) and pass unusual Turtle Island in Harrington Sound. From here on, the road goes inland somewhat. A little way past the entrance to Broken Hill Road on the right, you'll reach the eastern boundary of Smith's Parish and enter Hamilton Parish. The view overlooking Harrington Sound is stunning.
Harrington Sound has gone through huge changes. When Bermuda's population was much smaller than it is now (the fourth most densely populated country in the world), there were significant populations of clams, conchs, scallops and huge stands of branching corals. All have disappeared in any quantity although some clams remain. No commercial fishing is done.
Off South Road. A lovely Bermuda beach.
Jim and Edna Rhilinger, of Massachusetts, enjoying a late December 2002 day on this beach.
Just a little southeast of where Devil's Hole Hill meets the South Road, this is a really beautiful pink public beach and scenic attraction. It is as popular with locals as it is for visitors. The day-time # 1 bus stops on the South Road nearby. The swimming, coastline and scenery here are absolutely magnificent, in a park setting. There's a lifeguard on duty during the summer months.
Facilities include two parking areas on either side, picnic areas, public conveniences and a lunch wagon. When the concrete ramp to the beach was built, it was assumed - wrongly - that people in wheelchairs could access. But it is far too steep. However, the ambulatory disabled should have no problem. It is named after the famous 17th century English adventurer and author Captain John Smith (see graphic). He was not related to Sir Thomas Smith mentioned earlier. But he wrote very extensively in about 1624 about Bermuda (as the Somers Isles), New England and Virginia. He referred to Bermuda with its original name of the Somers Isles. But how he came and went is still shrouded in mystery. |
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It begins as a turnoff to the left off the South Road just a little east of St. Mark's Church, and ends where Harrington Sound Road meets the Devil's Hole part of Harrington Sound. It offers magnificent views of the South Shore to the right. It climbs higher and higher, going past some beautiful private homes and a series of residential streets in the middle. Then it dips down to sea level again. The foliage, houses, views of the South Shore to the south, Harrington Sound to the north and "skyline" aspects make it most interesting.
See under Accommodation.
See under Bermuda Cuisine and Restaurants.
The # 1 day time bus stops on either side of the South Road nearby.
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51 South Road. It is one of the Anglican Churches of Bermuda. It was named in 1857 after St. Mark, who wrote the second gospel. He accompanied St. Paul and St. Barnabas and later joined St. Paul in Rome. Tradition says he was put to death in Egypt by being dragged through the streets by the neck. He was buried in Alexandria, Egypt, but in the year 815 Venetian merchants carried his relics to Italy and a church, San Marco, was built to shelter them. He has been represented in art not only as being dragged by the neck but also as being strangled and - less violently - seated underneath a fig tree. The winged lion is his most widely used symbol. The cornerstone of the church was laid in 1847. It is a fine example of Gothic revival style. One of the most charming of the parish churches and its spire, designed by Dr Henry Hinson, one of the loveliest. Consecrated in 1849, it took the place of Harris’ Bay Church which stood on the site of the present graveyard from the early 1700s until 1846; a simple, silver chalice dated 1676 is a treasure left from the old church. |
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Land for St. Mark’s was given by sisters, Sarah Trott and Mary Sears. When first built, the church was a plain, rectangular building with a gable roof and arched windows. It remained a country church until transformed under the leadership of The Reverend George Tucker and parishioner Jeremiah Scott Pearman, who made the care and ornamentation of the church his life’s work. They blessed the building of a Gothic tower, measuring more than one hundred feet, and an octagonal, buttressed spire, above which rose a cross. Julian Tucker, the chief mason, skillfully executed the work and later built a comparable steeple for St. Paul AME Church in Hamilton. The pews were made from mahogany logs washed ashore in the Turks Islands and later shipped aboard the HMS Beta to Bermuda. The altar, the exquisite reredos and pulpit, all made of cedar, were artistically carved by Arthur Wilkinson of Bailey’s Bay. |
Photographs by author Keith A. Forbes
The font was fashioned from Bermuda limestone by convicts. The bells which pealed for the first time in 1911 were given by the congregation in memory of Archdeacon Tucker, St. Mark’s well-loved rector for nearly forty years. Ministers of this church, more than any other church in Bermuda of any religion, have been the subject of much prolonged controversy by quarreling parishioners, first in 1867 when they prevented the minister from accessing and most recently in 2003 when they publicly protested over the reverend and walked out in droves.
Note how graves in Bermuda are above the ground, but bodies are six feet under ground. Of special interest to American visitors are the graves of a former US Consul General, Mr. Charles Maxwell Allan (who died in 1888) and his wife, Mrs. Marion Schuyler Allan (who died in 1909). On numerous occasions at Bay House in Pembroke Parish, Bermuda, where they lived for years, Mark Twain was a regular and popular guest of Mr. Charles Maxwell Allan, Assistant Consul General and Mrs. Marion Schuyler Allan. (In the 1860s, Allan had been a friend in Bermuda of another expatriate, the English artist Edward K. James). Mr. Allen did not return to the USA after the Civil War. He remained in Bermuda as U.S. Consul until his death.
Canadian visitors should note that here also reposes the grave of Professor Reginald Fessenden (born October 6, 1866). He died in Bermuda on July 22, 1932. At the Whitney Institute school not far away, he had been the Headmaster. Fessenden had married a Trott (an old Bermuda family) and in his memory there are scholarships called the Fessenden-Trott Scholarships. He made it possible for radio voices to be broadcast (Marconi's radio only did Morse code). On his grave (on a stone lintel at the top of the memorial) is inscribed: "His mind illumined the past and the future and wrought greatly for the present." When Fessenden retired to Flatt's Village (because of a heart condition) in 1928, he bought 'Wistowe' and remodeled it.
23 South Road. Phone 236-9866. Fax 232-2824. Pastor Jerome J. Kroetsch, CR. Portuguese Pastor Rev. Joao Carlos Costa. P. O. Box FL 267, Flatts, FL BX. E-mail stpats@ibl.bm. With two marked Handicapped Parking spaces. But not usable at a funeral, as the hearse blocks them.
P. O. Box FL 433, Flatt's, FL BX. Appointed under the Parish Councils Act 1971. See under "Parish Councils" in Bermuda Government Boards. Appointees are political and meetings are not open to the public, unlike in the United Kingdom, Canada and USA where parish or community councils always are.
| 60 acres. Bermuda's largest nature
reserve and wildlife sanctuary. Its history began
in 1954 when the Legislature authorized the
first purchase of land to be set aside as public open space. It was the
first nature reserve in Bermuda. The reserve - not the pond - is open from dawn until dusk, with parking. No
admission fee. It is jointly maintained by the
Bermuda National Trust, Bermuda Audubon
Society and Department of the Environment which replaced the Department
of Agriculture in 2002.
The # 1 day time bus stops nearby.
On the ocean side of the South Road. There is no evidence this has any connection with the word "spit" or spittal." Probably much more likely is a historic connection with various places proudly named "spittal" in Scotland, including, according to the "Scotland Atlas & Gazetteer" two Spittal places in Dumfries & Galloway; in East Lothian; Spittal Hill nearby; Spittal of Glenmuick in Aberdeen-shire; Spittal of Glenshee, in Perthshire; Spittalfield, nearby and Spittal in Caithness. The brackish pond has a greatly reduced salt content and no permanent connection with the ocean nearby. It has no tidal range at all. But during storms, Spittal Pond can become very salty when inundated by the ocean. Like all brackish ponds, it is unstable. |
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Lack of dissolved oxygen is common and many areas of yellow, pink or black sulphur-producing bacteria can develop, with a nasty smell. It is where wild migratory birds congregate, especially from November to March. It is the best birdwatching area in Bermuda. Most prominent are Canada geese, ducks, flamingoes, herons, terns and other water fowl. Paths and trails designate areas to explore. Many non-native birds shelter or winter here, like American Coots, Connecticut and Kentucky Warblers, Glossy Ibis, Gadwall, Eurasian and American Widgeon, Greater and Lesser Scaup and Common Goldeneye. It is also a magnificent place for a walk for able people (Sorry, not for the disabled). See a historic site; a bronze plaque which bears a cryptic inscription of two initials and the date 1543. Some historians believe mariners landed, carved their initials and claim the island for Portugal or Spain. Also see The Chequerboard, a natural curiosity. Seawater created small channels forming precise squares in the limestone. It is believed it is an ancient beach that became solidified.
The Smith's Parish stretch of one of Bermuda's three main roads is lovely for views and sightseeing attractions. Going east, it starts off mildly, where the Devonshire Parish portion ends, just before the Church of Nazarene and Collector's Hill bearing off to the left. Another church, Centenary Methodist, is on the left with a shopping center opposite. Further east - at 23 South Road, phone 236-9866 - is the round St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Church on your left. Then you come to the junction with St. Mark's Road on the left, very rural, with St. Mark's Church prominent. After the "saintly" area, you come to the downhill and then flat coastal drive of magnificent South Shore scenery for nearly three miles. On the right, overlook the tranquil Spittal Pond Nature Reserve (described below). On the left, see the beginning of Knapton Hill, with its own "skyline drive" vistas.
After the junction on the left with Harrington Hundreds Road, pass Watch Hill Park on your right and lovely seascapes of the South Shore. Cliffs, rocks, green of the vegetation, blend with the blue of the ocean and fierce action of the waves on windy days. After passing Winterhaven Nature Reserve on the left you encounter John Smith's Bay on your right. Its beauty and site will tempt you stop. Further straight on, past Devil's Hole Road to the left, pass the Marsden Methodist Church on your left, then the beginning of Mangrove Lake on your left and an access road, Somersall Road, for the H. T. North Nature Reserve which includes the lake. At this point, you've reached the boundary of Smith's Parish. Further east is Hamilton Parish. The # 1 bus stops at all the bus stops in the Smith's Parish portion of the South Road.
A small wildlife and woodland reserve off the South Road directly opposite John Smith's Bay. You'll see the sign for the facility, but not any obvious access way or path to find your own way in and out. Avoid the poison ivy. The # 1 bus stops at the John Smith's Bay stop on either side of the South Road nearby. There is limited vacation accommodation here for the handicapped in the nice Summerhaven complex for them.
This leads off from Harrington Sound Road, a very hilly excursion, best tackled on a rented moped. It was named because it was the only hill that gave a clear view of the town of St. George far to the east, then Bermuda's capital, for signaling purposes. In the days before radios, telephones, televisions, etc., a high commanding view such as this one provided a method of quickly signaling what ships had arrived, or were about to depart from the town, and other news. You get a glorious view as far as Gibb's Hill Lighthouse and the Royal Naval Dockyard to the west, and St. David's Island, in St. George's Parish, to the east.
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Top of Collector's Hill, at junction with Sayle Road. Phone (441) 236-7369. Owned by the Bermuda National Trust which, in 2003, was given a major award by the American Society of Travel Writers (SATW) for the restoration of Vermont. SATW visited during its 2001 Annual Conference in Bermuda. Georgian style and three floors. With rose and flower, herb and mixed period gardens. Both the house and garden are open to the public at specific times. With a parking area for the able (no Disabled by Permit Only parking signs). Admission is Tuesday through Saturday (except public holidays) from 10.00 am to 4:30 pm, $4 for adults, free for Bermuda National Trust or affiliated members and children under 12. The house has four chimneys with fireplaces in all eight rooms. It has a superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture and valuable mahogany. Other period artifacts include English and Chinese porcelain, Georgian silver including pieces by Bermuda silversmiths, portraits in oils, children's furniture and toys. |
Photo by author Keith A. Forbes
Also see a fine Bermuda cedar staircase, an Oriental room, powder rooms (once used for powdering wigs, not faces) and toy nursery. Its Bermuda cedar furniture pieces were built by local craftsmen from 1700 to 1820. The house has its share of resident ghosts and ocean views. It was a private residence until 1953. It was never plumbed or electrified. There is no kitchen or running water or air conditioning or ceiling fans or heating.
It is a unique example of early Georgian architecture. It has remained architecturally unchanged since the late 1700s. It is on the site of an older - former - house acquired and added to later in his life by late 17th century Bermudian visionary, Captain William Sayle (in whose honor Sayle Road nearby is named). Governor/Captain William Sayles and the Eleutheran Adventurers sailed from Bermuda in 1648 and settled the Bahamas. Governor Sayles served three terms as Governor of Bermuda before becoming the first Governor of the Bahamas and first Governor of Carolina (before it was split in two as North and South Carolina).
It was re-built in 1710 by John Dickinson. Later, it was acquired by Hon. Thomas Smith who, as Collector of Customs, spawned "Collector's Hill" both as the name of the house and the main nearby access road (another is Collector's Close. Later yet, it was acquired and added to by the USA-born portrait painter and loyalist judge John Green from Philadelphia who married one of the four daughters of Thomas Smith. He and his wife and four daughters were all painted by Green. Later, Green acquired it himself and promptly called the property "Verdmont" as a French pun on his surname, combining the word for green and mountain. The property had a different name before then. It has been Verdmont ever since.
In the mid 19th century, the house and its 50 acres passed through descendants of Elizabeth Smith and her husband Colonel Henry Trott. They sold it to gentleman farmer Rupert Spencer, whose great-niece Lillian Joell was the last person to live in the house. She declined to modernize it and lived there without electricity or plumbing. In 1951, she sold the property to the Bermuda Historical Monuments Trust, forerunner of the Bermuda National Trust.
The name also prompted other roads built since then to be known as Verdmont Road, Verdmont Drive, Verdmont Lane, Verdmont Valley Drive, Verdmont Valley View and Verdmont Valley Close. Also, because the Verdmont estate was once hugely bigger than it is now and centuries ago stretched between the South and North Shores, further variations of the Green name were made - and have stuck - at Green Hill Lane not far from the North Shore, at the top of Store Hill where it intersects with Middle Road; and Green View Lane, near the foot of Collector's Hill on the South Shore.
| Friends of Verdmont | Meets third Friday each month (Except July and August) at Bermuda National Trust headquarters, Waterville, Paget, 3:30 pm. A volunteer group aiding in preservation of Verdmont. New members are welcome. Call 236-6483. |
| On the South Shore,
below the southern brow of Knapton Hill. Its little
cliff-side public path and parking area leads off the South Road, about a mile east
of St. Mark's Church, overlooking the ocean.
Stop and admire the stunning sea views. Watch Hill Road is nearby and both have the same historical significance. In the early days of Bermuda, fear of a Spanish attack resulted in the passing of a local law - based on British law of the time - requiring every parish to maintain a 24-hour watch. |
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| A system of signal fires was used to alert other high
or strategic points beyond the parish. This is how the name started.
The park is prettiest on the eastern, turfed area, where there are great picnic spots. On days when gale force winds are from the south, great waves hurl themselves onto the rocks below with such force that sheets of spray rise high into the air and spill into the park. The # 1 bus stops nearby. |
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Another, small, wildlife and woodland reserve open to the public. One entrance is just off the South Road between John Smith's Bay and Watch Hill Park. The # 1 bus stops at John Smith's Bay nearby. The other is in and overlooks Harrington Sound Road. The #3 bus stops nearby. The nature reserve runs between the two entrances. For seascapes, the south side of this reserve is lovely. The north side, over Harrington Sound, is as nice. Within the property, on the south side, is the historic former Winterhaven Farm House, dating from the 18th century, a fine example of traditional Bermudian architecture. It was owned until recently by the Bermuda National Trust but was sold to Bermuda's Premier Dr. The Hon Ewart Brown, and is now the Brown-Darrell Clinic, a medical stem cell research centre opened in 2008, involving Dr. Brown, his wife Wanda and Stemedica Cell Technologies, a California-based biotech company. A scanner said to be capable of producing sensational images has been installed there. It is a Siemens Somatom Sensation 64-Slice CT Scanner, with the technology to provide previously unknown sharpness, diagnostic detail and clarity. The Premier says a complete scan takes as little as five minutes, meaning less time and discomfort for patients, faster results for doctors and the ability to avoid more invasive tests if necessary. Stem cell patients are expected to fly into the Island for treatment. Presently, Bermuda has no stem cell regulations. The clinic has previously stated it would welcome and encourage legislation consistent with the international protocol practised by countries engaged in stem cell research.
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Last Updated:
January 4, 2009
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